OK so I am quite new to this whole Blog thing,but I am going to start blogging the work I am doing with the animals I am caring for on a daily basis. I have been fortunate to begin another chapter of my personal research and to have a 1.1 long term pair of adults to test some problematic breeding theories on. I will be adding new posts daily of all of my data and images of this project.

Ari

Tags: adults, animals, boelen, personal research, python

Natural History and Taxonomy

 

The black tree monitor (also called Beccari’s monitor) is a medium-sized arboreal monitor lizard that is brightly colored with green and transverse black banding. This species has a highly developed sense of smell and extremely acute vision. V. beccarii spends most of its time perched high above the canopy basking and foraging for food.

 

It is found only on the Aru Islands off New Guinea . Varanus beccarii was first described as Monitor beccari by Doria, in 1874. Years later, it was classified as a subspecies of the emerald tree monitor (V. prasinus), but a 1991 review of the complex returned V. beccari to species status. It has been argued that it should be maintained as a subspecies of the emerald tree monitor based on similarities in their hemipeneal structures, but genetic evidence supports their treatment as different species.

 

Captive Care

 

The Black Tree Monitor is highly arboreal and needs lots of vertical space to feel comfortable. keep captive care similar to that of V.prasinus. It is highly prone to stress and if all captive husbandry is not done correctly, it will not feed properly and could eventually perish from stress-related issues. Single animals can be housed in large vertically-spaced enclosures measuring at least 5 ft. x 3 ft. x 3 ft (1.5 m. x .9 m. x .9 m). Lots of vertical branching and limbs should be placed in the enclosure to allow for much needed climbing and foraging behavior. I recommend using several large broad-leafed plants and some smaller foliage for concealment and humidity. Flat cork slabs can be fixed to the back of the enclosure to allow for vertical access and exploration. This also will allow for arboreal air plants to be fixed to the walls.

 

Hydration

 

One of the most important considerations when attempting to keep this lizard is hydration. Misting multiple times a day is crucial. The animal also should be allowed to gain access to arboreal-placed water dishes in the enclosure. Fresh water should be provided daily.

 

Lighting

 

Varanus beccarii lives almost 90% of its life high in the canopy. I highly recommend using ultraviolet lighting for this species. I suggest using several Zoo Med 10.0 fluorescent lights fixed to the top of the enclosure. Multiple basking sites with varying intensities also should be provided. Ambient temperatures for the enclosure should be around 78-84° F. (26-29° C.). Isolated basking temperatures for this species should be in the 90°-100° F (32°-38° C.) range. The temperature should not exceed this upper limit and care should be taken when setting up the lights so that the lizard cannot come into contact with them. Varanids can and will burn themselves while basking.

 

Diet

 

In the wild this species feeds on a variety of arboreal insects, centipedes, spiders, crabs, birds, and small mammals. In captivity it will readily accept small rodents into its diet. It is thought, however, that too much of this type of prey item can lead to unhealthy, obese animals. I recommend offering insects such as Dubia roaches and crickets dusted with calcium three times a week. Offering small pink mice in moderation also is OK.

 

Reproduction

 

This species can lay as many as three clutches throughout the year. Captive clutches have been laid in January, March, April, November, and December. Clutches consist of up to five eggs. In the wild, the female deposits her clutches of eggs in arboreal termite nests. The eggs hatch between 160–190 days, typically from June to November, after which the young eat the termites and the termite’s eggs. Although this species has reproduced in captivity numerous times, it still can be challenging to have them breed. It appears that this species responds well to heavy periods of rain during the breeding seasons.

 

Introducing a female to a male typically will result in the male following the female and engaging in tongue flicking and attempts to copulate. The male will approach the female and try to pin her down and maneuver himself so that he can wrap his tail around her to position himself for copulation. It is not uncommon for a male to invert its hemipenis during this time. Copulation can take place from several minutes to several hours. This breeding behavior can occur for several weeks. After breeding behavior has ceased, I recommend removing the male so no unnecessary stress occurs and the chances of the male eating the eggs is reduced.

 

Depositing the eggs can take from 30-60 days. Multiple nesting areas should be placed inside the enclosure. This will give the female time to explore and chose which nest box she prefers. Once the eggs are found, they should be incubated in a 1:1 ratio by weight of vermiculite to water. Incubation temperature should be 84°-86° F. (29°-30° C.) and the humidity should be as high as possible.

 

Conclusion

 

Varanus beccarii is not on the IUCN red list, but it is vulnerable to loss of habitat due to its restricted range. Varanus beccarii is a truly fascinating species of small monitor to keep in captivity.  Highly personable and ingellegent.It can prove to be very entertaining and rewarding as a captive. By following the simple recommendations in this article, you can help them flourish in your care.

 

References: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_tree_monitor

Tags: acute vision, air plants, aru islands, captive care, captive husbandry, cork slabs, foraging behavior, foraging for food, genetic evidence, monitor lizard, species status, varanus, vertical space

Description

 

The mangrove snake (Boiga dendrophila), which also is know as the gold-ringed cat snake, is  one of the most stunning members of the genus Boiga. Boiga is a large genus of mildly venomous, rear-fanged, colubrid snakes typically known as the cat-eyed snakes or just cat snakes.

 

Mangrove snakes are one of the biggest cat snake species, reaching lengths of 6-8 ft. (1.8-2.4 m.) in length. They have yellow or white bands on a black body, rather large eyes, and yellow forward facing bands on their labial scales.

 

They are members of the Colubridae family – the largest snake family with 304 genera and 1,938 species. They are distributed throughout mainland Southeast Asia, the Malay Archipelago, and India; but they have spread to many other habitats because of their hardy nature and adaptability.

 

Captive care

 

These snakes are primarily nocturnal, spending most of their time during the day tucked away in a dark damp area and emerging at the onset of evening to search for food. Enclosures for this species  should be a highly arboreal design with plenty of large plants and vertical space. A natural substrate is better than paper or aspen.

 

Humidity is crucial with this species and by using a soil mulch type substrate, this will be easier to control. Appropriate temperatures for maintaining this species should range from a daytime high in the 80’s to a nighttime low in the mid 70’s. The humidity range should be from 60%-90%. Care must be taken to ensure that the snakes are not consistently wet and that they are allowed to dry out for periods of the day. Basking lights should be provided daily for several hours of exposure. I also would recommend installing some type of misting unit that provides a timed misting schedule.

 

Lighting

 

I always recommend using ultraviolet light with all arboreal species.

 

Diet

 

In the wild these arboreal snakes feed on a variety of small birds, rodents, and small lizards and frogs. Offer captive neonates and juveniles pink mice. As the animals increase in size, increase the size of the prey item to large pre-killed mice. You also can use small fowl to get problematic feeders to accept food.  Maintain caution if you house these animals together. There have been reports of cannibalism.

 

Reproduction

 

This species does not commonly reproduce in captivity, although some keepers have gotten eggs on several occasions. Mating seems to take place mainly between April and September with the arrival of the rainy season. Reports of aggression with breeding animals in captivity have been reported. There is a gestation period of about 44-48 days. Clutch sizes typically range from 5-9 eggs. The incubation temperature for this species can be speculated to be in the low to mid 80’s. Eggs will hatch after about 100 days. Neonates typically measure around 12-14 in. (30.5-35.5 cm.). I have heard that neonates will quickly begin to feed after hatching, in some instances even within the first few days.

 

Envenomation

 

There are few reports about the toxicity of the venom of B. dendrophilia. They technically are classed as opisthoglyphous snakes: rear-fanged snakes having relatively weak venom. In order to envenomate prey, such a snake has to move the prey into the rear of its mouth and then penetrate it with its fangs. This can be difficult for them to achieve with large prey, but they can quickly move smaller prey (or a human handler’s finger) into position. Even though the mangrove snake is not considered very dangerous to humans, like all other rear-fanged snakes, it should be treat with respect.

Other rear-fanged snakes include the boomslang (Dispholidus typus), and the twig snakes (Thelotornis). Both of them are exceptional among this group of snakes in that they are highly venomous and cause human deaths. Some other well-known rear-fanged snakes of lesser toxicity are the long-nosed tree snake (Ahaetulla nasuta), the lyre snakes (Trimorphodon), the cat snakes (Telescopus), and the hog-nosed snakes (Heterodon).

 

The Web site www.petanim.com reported an instance of human envenomation involving a woman who was bitten on the forearm by an escaped, four feet long mangrove snake when she reached into a dark closet. The snake was able to chew her arm allowing venom to penetrate the wound. Her arm swelled and medical treatment could not adequately reverse the swelling. Fortunately, after three days the swelling stopped and her arm returned to it’s natural size without any side affects.

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Tiliqua rugosa

 

By Ari Flagle

 

Introduction

 

The Shingleback skink has always stood out in my mind as one of the most peculiar and unique lizards that I have ever worked with. It probably has more common names than any other lizard, for example: pinecone lizard, bobtail, bobtail goanna, boggi (or bog-eye) the two-headed lizard, the sleepy lizard, stumpies, and the stump-tailed skink. It is a short-tailed and slow-moving lizard with a triangular head, a bright blue tongue, a heavily armored body of various colors, and small, weak legs.

 

Its short, wide stumpy tail resembles its head, which likely confuses predators. Like most skinks, it can break off its tail when attacked and later replace all or part of the tail. Interestingly, regeneration of the tail can result in the formation of several tail buds, which then develop into multiple tails. Losing the tail does, however, have negative consequences for the Shingleback since the tail contains fat reserves that are needed during hibernation in winter.

 

The Shingleback skink is indigenous to Australia where it is a very common reptile. It is often seen sunning itself on roadsides or other paved areas, and it is a familiar backyard friend to many Australians. It is welcome in gardens because it eats the snails, caterpillars and other pests that destroy flowers and vegetables.

 

This unusual reptile is not often seen in the pet trade. The collection of live Shingleback skinks by amateur herpetologists in Australia is highly restricted, and exportation of this species from Australia is currently prohibited. There are, however, some pairs in the trade that have been producing captive young for private collections. These captives are expensive and rather difficult to find. Shinglebacks in captivity are ideal reptile pets because they become calm and docile and don’t mind being handled. They also are long lived, easy to feed and have “personalities”.

 

Description / Classification

 

The Shingleback Skink was first described by John Edward Gray in 1825 as Trachydosaurus rugosus. It subsequently was reclassified as Tiliqua rugosa. There is, however, an ongoing argument about the classification of this species. Some experts believe the Shingleback should belong to the genus Trachydosaurus.

 

There are four subspecies of Tiliqua rugosa. Three of the four are found only in Western Australia, where they are known collectively by the common name “bobtail”. The name shingleback is also used, especially for T. rugosa aspera, the only subspecies native to eastern Australia. The four subspecies are as follows:

 

1. Tiliqua rugosa rugosa is the Western Shingleback (Western Bobtail). It is similar to the eastern and northern subspecies, but it has a paler belly and longer tail, larger ears and pale irregular bands on the back.

 

2. Tiliqua rugosa aspera is the Eastern Shingleback (Eastern Bobtail). It has a darker belly, larger body scales and a shorter, fatter tail than the Western Shingleback. It’s found in southern Australia where it lives in grasslands, forests, desert plains, and even suburban gardens. It can reach a length of almost 30 in. (76 cm.).

 

3. Tiliqua rugosa konowi is the Rottnest Island Shingleback (Rottnest Island Bobtail). Its color is much darker than the other subspecies, and it has a narrower head, a slender body, and a longer tail. Its scales aren’t as predominant as those of the other subspecies. It is the smallest subspecies of the group, reaching a maximum length of 24 in. (61 cm.). It is only found on Rottnest Island, off the western coast of Australia where it mainly is found among sand and limestone rocks, low growing grasses and moderate woodland areas.

 

4. Tiliqua rugosa palarra is the Shark Bay Shingleback (Northern Bobtail). It’s similar to the Western Shingleback but with smaller ears and usually no pale irregular bands on the back. The Shark Bay Shingleback reaches a little larger than 24 in. (61 cm.) in length and has a broader, longer head and a somewhat less blunt end to its tail than the other subspecies. It is found in Shark Bay of western Australia and North to Carnarvon, living in arid areas with acacia scrub and porcupine grass.

 

Captive Care

 

Housing

 

Suitable housing for Shingleback skinks would be a 5 ft. x 2 ft. x 2 ft. ( 152 cm. x 61 cm. x 61 cm.) wood or glass terrarium with a dry substrate such as sand, small gravel, newspaper, cypress mulch, etc. It is important to keep the substrate and the enclosure dry. If moisture and bacteria build up in the substrate, the lizards can develop skin and toe degeneration problems. Also keep in mind that using sand as a substrate has been known to cause bowel impaction. Water should be offered daily from a small shallow bowl. Once the lizards have finished drinking, remove the bowl. If you live in a rather humid area, provide water twice a week.

 

Once a week place them in a large tub of water where they can get a good soak. Provide plenty of places for hiding – cork flats, tiles, shrubbery, or logs sliced in half. From my observations, including multiple males in a relatively small sized enclosure with more males then females will result in territorial aggression, fighting, and stress.

 

Humidity is an important aspect of Shingleback ownership and proper maintenance. High levels of humidity in their enclosure can lead to health issues, such as respiratory infections, which can be devastating. If you add plants to their enclosure, avoid large plants and lush greenery that will keep areas of the enclosure moist. Be sure that the plants you use are not toxic, because the lizards will likely eat some of them.

 

In the wild Shingleback skinks have been found in small pods of 4-6 animals. Juvenile Shinglebacks will actually stay around the mother for quite some time before they set out on their own. This is likely unique among reptiles. Since they show signs of monogamy, separating breeding pairs and pairing them up with other Shinglebacks can adversely affect them.

 

Lighting / Temperature

 

The mixture of the right UV lighting and basking lights are highly recommended and quite crucial. Shingleback skinks should have a light period of twelve hours on and twelve hours off. This helps promote proper daily activity and good health, and it can induce breeding. The average temperature of the enclosure should range from 75°-85° F. (24°-29° C.). A hot spot that is 90°-100° F. (32°-38° C.) and a cool spot of 80°-85° F. (27°-29° C.) work well. This will ensure that the animal will be active and will properly digest their food. The night time temperature should not be allowed to drop below 70° F. (21° C.) although they can handle lower temperatures for short periods of time.

 

Feeding

 

Shingleback skinks are omnivorous, and plants make up a major part of their diet. In the wild they have been known to also eat carrion. In captivity they do well with a mixed diet of vegetables and fruits. They also will eat crickets, grasshoppers, wax worms and meal worms, and ground turkey on occasion. It is best to alternate food daily for healthier nutrition and to keep them from becoming finicky eaters. Food should be provided each morning, and it should be sprinkled with vitamins and minerals twice a week.

 

Breeding

 

In the wild, as the temperature decreases over time and there is less light each day, Shinglebacks will start to store excess fat in their tails in preparation for brumation – the hibernation-like state that cold-blooded animals enter into during very cold weather. During this time the lizards will slow down considerably and cut back heavily on feeding. Following the end of this cold weather period and the end of brumation, the Shinglebacks’ breeding season begins. A male typically will follow around a female, periodically try to grab her head or neck in his mouth, and then try to place his tail under hers to begin copulation. If the copulating is successful, the female will typically give birth to 1-4 babies. This species is viviparous (live bearing). Gestation is about 150 days.

 

References

 

Green, D. (2001) Keeping shingleback lizards. Australian Reptile Keeper Publications, Bendigo.

 

Cogger, H.G. 2000. Reptiles and Amphibians of Australia. Reed New Holland, Frenchs Forest.

 

Pugh, M. & Pugh, M. (1999 ) Shingle-back Trachydosaurus rugosus Care Sheet, Journal of the VAAH, The Crocodilian 2(1):14-15.

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